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Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission Divisions of Freshwater Fisheries Management & Habitat and Species Management Introduction PRINTABLE PDF
VERSION: Guidelines for Designing
Ponds (3 mb, PDF file) Fishing is one of the most popular recreational activities in Florida. The
state has many small natural and manmade ponds that, if managed properly, can
provide excellent fishing, waterfowl hunting and bird watching.
Largemouth bass,
bream (bluegill and redear sunfish) and
channel catfish are raised in Florida fish
ponds. Ponds can be managed intensively for high fish production while
attracting wading birds, waterfowl and other wildlife species. Often, ponds are
constructed or managed for a variety of uses such as swimming, residential
development, drainage, irrigation, livestock watering and mining. Some of these
uses can be incompatible with fish and wildlife pond management. Identifying
conflicting uses must be a primary concern when developing a fish and wildlife
management program. It is necessary to have an understanding of basic aquatic ecology to manage a pond properly. Ecology is the study of relationships living things have to each other and their environment. These relationships frequently operate at a complex level, where a change in one factor can influence many different organisms and their habitats in a variety of ways. Figure 1 shows a simplified food pyramid, which depicts the interdependence of various aquatic organisms. The bottom level represents various species of algae. Algae are microscopic plants that use nutrients in combination with sunlight to produce food - a process called photosynthesis. Some algae are eaten by small, free-floating animals called zooplankton, located at the second level of the food pyramid. Organisms in the top four levels generally consume other organisms in the levels shown immediately below them. A pond's ability to support a large number of organisms in the upper levels of the pyramid is dependent upon the strength of its food base as depicted by the lower levels. In ponds, humans, otters,
alligators and some wading birds are the top predators. Largemouth bass are the
top fish consumers (predators) that feed on insect-eating fishes such as bream,
shiners and minnows. Some ponds may support gizzard and/or threadfin shad
populations. Both feed on plankton, and are important prey for bass. The
objective for most ponds is to establish a simple predator-prey relationship
using largemouth bass, bluegill and redear sunfish. Wildlife will use the pond
and shoreline for watering, feeding and hiding from predators. The first step in determining a design is to consider the purposes for which the pond will be used. A pond built for drainage or watering livestock is not necessarily the best design for a fish pond. If the pond serves more than a single purpose, construction should reflect its primary purpose. Ponds used primarily for agricultural purposes such as water storage or watering animals should be designed to minimize adverse impacts that farming activities may have on water quality. Livestock access should be limited to a small area to reduce erosion and prevent high turbidity levels. Runoff from crop fields should be diverted with swales or berms to prevent excessive nutrient loading, siltation and contamination by pesticides. Information on planning, design and construction of ponds is available from
the United States Department of Agriculture. Contact your local Natural Resource
Conservation Service (NRCS) agent and ask for Agriculture Handbook Number 590
titled: Ponds - Planning, Design, Construction. Aquatic plants growing in and around a pond provide many benefits. They help maintain good water quality by reducing erosion and absorbing nutrients. Plants provide cover for fish and a substrate for the colonization of minute organisms used by small fishes. Wildlife will use the shoreline vegetation for concealment and as areas to search for food. Properly designed ponds with a narrow fringe of vegetation seldom develop problems. You can maintain access sites simply by removing excess vegetation by hand. Planting desirable species will allow you to maximize the biological, aesthetic and recreational potential of the pond. A mixture of submerged (below water), emergent (stems below and leaves above water) and shoreline (entire plant out of water, but can tolerate occasional flooding) species are recommended for "aquascaping". Desirable plants can be found in the DEP Bureau of Invasive Plant Management Circular #4 titled: Plants for Lakefront Revegetation (PDF; 5 mb). When established, these plants may out-compete problem species such as cattails and torpedo grass. The introduction of any exotic plant is prohibited by law. Planting around islands will provide excellent habitat for wildlife that will not interfere with bank angling. You may need to obtain a permit from the DEP prior to any plant collection or transplanting activities. Florida DEP also can provide information pertaining to private companies who specialize in aquascaping and aquatic plant control. The Center for Aquatic Plants has a web site that will help you identify various aquatic plant species (http://aquat1.ifas.ufl.edu/). Excessive gradual slopes, shallow ponds and the introduction of problematic exotic plants such as hydrilla and water hyacinth can lead to overgrowth of vegetation. When plants become too abundant, recreational use is restricted and the ability of predators (bass) to feed on prey (bluegill) is reduced. Growth rates of both bass and bluegill will decrease, and fishing quality will decline. In some instances, excessive plant growth will deplete DO and may cause fish kills. The Florida DEP, the Florida Cooperative Extension Service or any FWC regional office can assist you with aquatic plant identification and management advice. The three methods for controlling nuisance plants are mechanical (removal by hand or machine), chemical (herbicides) and biological (triploid grass carp and hyacinth weevil). When a biological agent can provide adequate vegetation control, it is usually recommended over the use of chemicals. Triploid grass carp can be an effective tool to control certain plant species. Since triploid grass carp are an exotic fish and importation of all such species is strictly regulated, you should refer to the FWC Web site, or contact the appropriate FWC regional office to obtain a permit application. A biologist may inspect the pond, and if appropriate, will issue a permit to allow you to purchase a specified number of triploid grass carp. You may be required to install a fish barrier to prevent the carp from escaping to another water body. Only certified triploid grass carp are allowed for use since these fish are sterile. The least desirable method for vegetation control is herbicidal, but occasionally chemical control is less expensive or the most practical method. In extreme situations, a chemical treatment followed by the stocking of grass carp to maintain control, is a viable solution. Maintaining good water quality is critical to pond management. Proper levels of pond productivity are required to sustain a fish population, which supports wildlife. Poor water quality is the most common cause for poor pond production. Turbidity Turbid or muddy water should not be confused with stained or green colored water. Turbidity is caused by clay and silt particles held in suspension in the water column. Colored water that is clear, but resembles tea, is caused by tannins and lignins leached from certain upland soils. Ponds that are highly colored are capable of producing good fish populations. Green water is caused by suspended microscopic (phytoplankton) algae, and will be discussed in the “Managing Pond Fertility” section. Muddy water can reduce sunlight penetration, which will disrupt biological production. Newly dug ponds will usually experience temporary turbidity; however, if the pond fails to clear within three or four months, take corrective measures. The most common source of turbidity is erosion from barren shorelines and upland areas. Sodding, seeding and aquascaping will reduce this source. Resuspension of clay and silt can result from high winds, livestock wading along the shoreline, and the burrowing actions of crayfish and certain fishes. Planting trees to buffer winds and fencing livestock to restricted areas of the pond are effective. If crayfish are the suspected cause, the establishment of largemouth bass and bream will reduce crayfish populations. If sources are controlled and the water remains turbid, it can be cleared by several methods. The easiest and safest method to reduce turbidity is to apply green hay to the pond's surface. Green hay attracts and neutralizes charged soil particles, causing them to settle on the pond's bottom. Apply four to six bales of hay per surface acre. Tear the hay apart and distribute it evenly across the pond. The decaying hay will also promote the growth of microscopic plants and animals that provide food for small fishes. Another way to reduce turbidity is to apply alum at a rate of 200 pounds per surface acre. Spread it as evenly as possible across the entire surface of the pond. Alum is usually available from farm supply dealers who sell fertilizer in bulk quantities. Controlling pH Ponds constructed on acidic soils can have low pH (highly acidic), which restricts the pond’s biological productivity. Fish growth, reproduction and survival can be affected by pH. Ideal pH should range from 6.0 to 8.0. You can increase low pH by liming. A county agricultural extension agent can assist you in determining how much lime your pond requires. One ton of finely ground agricultural limestone will raise the pH of one surface-acre by one pH unit. Apply lime to the pond bottom (if dewatered), pond surface or along the shallow edges of the pond. Response time and frequency of treatments will depend on local soil conditions, pond flush rate and rainfall. Managing Pond Fertility You can manage your pond at different levels of fertility depending on your desires and objectives. Infertile ponds produce low fish crops; more fertile ponds produce higher yields. Artificial methods to increase production include fertilization and supplemental feeding. In many ponds, however, nutrient inputs are excessive and problems develop from over enrichment. One way to determine a pond's fertility is to measure water transparency during spring and summer. You can devise a simple tool to do the job. Cut a 2-inch square of white plastic from a bleach bottle and fasten it to the end of a wooden yardstick. Push this apparatus into the pond vertically until the white plastic cannot be seen. Note the depth at which the plastic first disappears. If the plastic disappears between 16 and 36 inches, your pond has a desirable productivity level. Visibility greater than 36 inches indicates low production. In this situation, fertilization can increase fish production. By adding nutrients to the water, you will stimulate algal growth and strengthen the food chain. Fertilization is an expensive, time-consuming and complicated process. If done improperly, undesirable effects will result. You should fertilize only if your pond is infertile and you strongly desire maximum fish production. Overfertilization will cause fish kills; consult a FWC biologist before starting a fertilization program. If visibility is less than 16 inches, it is important to distinguish whether turbidity or suspended microscopic algae is to blame. Healthy algae blooms give the water a green hue. If the pond is overenriched, sources of nutrient inputs should be identified and eliminated. Ponds located near septic drain fields, fertilized lawns, cultivated crops and livestock are often overloaded with nutrients. Consider these factors before pond construction. Fencing the pond from livestock, discontinuing use of fertilizers within 20 feet of the pond, and constructing swales or berms adjacent to the pond edge will help reduce nutrient inputs. Do not allow lawn clippings, leaves or any other organic material to enter your pond. Leave an “unmanicured” buffer of desirable vegetation between lawns, agricultural fields, pastures, and the waterbody. This helps reduce nutrients and erosion. Retention ponds required for new developments are extremely vulnerable to poor water quality since, by design, they collect runoff from streets, parking lots and lawns. However, if homeowners adhere to the above suggestions, those too can provide a waterbody for recreation and aesthetic enjoyment. Fish Kills, Disease and Parasites Most fish kills result from low DO conditions that overfertile ponds commonly experience. Algae and aquatic plants using oxygen in the absence of sunlight (nighttime or cloudy days), decaying vegetation or the input of runoff containing organic matter can deplete oxygen levels. Ponds located near coastal areas may experience saltwater intrusion from surface or groundwater sources. Rapid changes in temperature, DO, salinity and pH can stress the fish population and cause a fish kill resulting from a secondary bacterial or viral infection. Disease outbreaks may also occur in crowded fish populations that compete for space, food or reproductive advantage. Spawning stress occurs because fish are expending a lot of energy, feeding less and are in close proximity to each other. The larger the waterbody, the less that can be done to stop a fish kill once it has begun. It is best to let the kill run its course. The best way to prevent a fish kill is to maintain good water quality. If you begin an intensive supplemental feeding program, sudden stoppage may create food shortages and stress. If DO related fish kills occur on a regular basis, you may want to install an aeration system. Paddle wheels, bottom airstones, fountains and other devices that create bottom-to-top vertical mixing (destratification) of the water column while adding Oxygen can help maintain adequate DO levels and reduce the chances of a fish kill. Consult a FWC biologist or aquaculture supply company representative before making a decision on aeration. Parasitic animals can be found in most fish. They dwell in the gills, eyes, flesh, digestive tract, reproductive organs and skin. These organisms are a natural part of a fish's environment. Most parasites do not seriously affect fish mortality and rarely cause fish kills. Human consumption of fish containing parasites poses no health threat if the fish is properly cooked. The input (from runoff or
direct application) of toxic pesticides is another cause of
Once you have designed your pond and addressed water quality and aquatic plant management concerns, the next step is to determine fish management strategy. Evaluate your desired species (Figure 5), level of management intensity and realistic expectations. Then design and implement a sound fish management program. Seek several sources of advice before making any decisions on stocking. The FWC web site or the Regional Office can provide a list of fish suppliers in your area. (Note - state operated hatcheries do not stock privately owned waterbodies). Establishing a Fishery There are three reasons to consider stocking: (1) the pond is new with no fish population; (2) undesirable species have invaded the pond; or (3) an established fish population has reached an unbalanced state where prey species (bream) have overpopulated and interfered with predator (bass) reproduction, or vice-versa. An unbalanced population may be the result of fish kills, improper fish harvest, incorrect stocking ratios, poor water quality or a combination of these factors. Stocking fingerling game fish into an existing fish population is ineffective. Survival of fingerlings is low, and stocking them will not improve fishing success. Stocking large juveniles, or 1 year-old fish can be successful, provided there is adequate habitat to ensure survival. Renovation (killing out) and restocking is usually the most feasible method of correcting an unbalanced or undesirable fish population. Proper methods to kill out a pond are covered in the renovation section. Whether your pond is newly dug or renovated, stock fingerling fish soon, before a fish population becomes established inadvertently. Ponds less than one surface acre in size generally will not provide a good largemouth bass/bream fishery for a substantial length of time. Channel catfish are recommended for stocking, since natural reproduction is limited in small ponds. This allows a pond owner to have a fishery he can maintain without fear of overpopulation or unbalance. If you want to begin fishing immediately, stock adult catfish. The disadvantage of stocking only channel catfish is that they require supplemental feeding to achieve good growth. Keep accurate harvest records so as the population becomes depleted, you can stock more fish. A catfish pond is very simple to manage and provides good fishing and an edible crop. You can establish a largemouth bass/bream fishery in a new pond by stocking 250-500 bream fingerlings per acre in the fall, followed by 50-100 largemouth bass fingerlings per acre the next spring. Numbers stocked varies, depending on pond fertility. The bream stocking should consist of approximately 70 percent bluegill and 30 percent redear sunfish. This stocking schedule will allow bream to grow and reproduce. Some of their offspring are then eaten by developing bass. You can begin bass fishing 18 months after stocking largemouth bass fingerlings. Bluegill and redear sunfish harvest should begin eight months after stocking. Restocking is not usually required since bass and bream reproduce naturally. In some ponds that are infertile or acidic, bass fingerlings should be stocked again one year after the initial stocking. This is needed when bass grow slowly and fail to reproduce after their first year. If properly managed, a largemouth bass/bream fishery can sustain itself indefinitely. You can stock catfish along with bass and bream. Stock fingerling catfish (100-500 per acre) with bass in the spring. Once bass have established and grown, it is necessary to stock larger (> 8 inches) catfish, since bass will consume catfish fingerlings. In fertile ponds that support threadfin shad, it may be desirable to stock hatchery-reared sunshine bass. These fish are a cross between striped bass and white bass. They will not reproduce, so you will need to restock them. Overstocking sunshine bass or introducing them into infertile waters will create competition with largemouth bass and should be avoided. If shad are stocked as prey, only use threadfin shad; their limited growth is best suited as a prey species for largemouth bass, sunshine bass, and black crappie, if present. Fish species you should not stock are common carp, brown bullhead, black crappie (in most situations), Georgia Giants, Nile perch (tilapia), any non-native or aquarium species. It is unlawful to stock exotic species, or native species from hatcheries residing outside the state without FWC permission. While black crappie are a popular game fish in lakes, they have a tendency to overpopulate and cause unbalanced populations in smaller ponds. Fishery Maintenance The main objective for managing a bass/bream fishery is to maintain a properly balanced population. If too many or too few bass are harvested (removed) from small ponds, the balance established with the initial stocking can become disturbed. Overharvest of bass and/or under harvest of bream are one cause of population imbalance, and results in poor fishing success. Stunted bream are a good indication of imbalance. Stunted bream are usually between 3 and 5 inches in total length and have abnormally large eyes (Figure 6). Stunted bream will constitute a large percentage of a pond's total fish population, and few bream will be larger than 6 inches. Bream reproduce at high rates and stunting occurs when reproduction exceeds predation. A stunted bream population also adversely affects largemouth bass reproduction and results in poor fishing success. A practice of restricting bass harvest coupled with high removal of bream will help prevent stunting. As a general rule, remove 10 pounds of bream for each pound of largemouth bass. Take care not to remove too many largemouth bass, particularly in ponds less than 5 acres. If you notice many small bass two to three years after stocking, it may be necessary to harvest some bass that are less than 12 inches in length. An overcrowded population of small bass will exhibit slow growth, and you will catch very few quality-size individuals. While removing smaller bass, maintain a practice of catch-and-release for those greater than 14 inches. Once a pond becomes unbalanced with too many bluegills, only the addition of adult bass may help restore proper prey/predator ratios. This measure is practical only in small ponds where the owner can acquire enough adult bass. Bass should be at least 10-12 inches long and stocked at 10 to 15 per acre. Stocking fingerling bass does not work in this situation (see Establishing a Fishery section). Renovation If supplemental stocking of adult bass is not possible, the only way to restore the fishery is to chemically renovate the existing population and restock with fingerling fish. Rotenone is the fish toxicant labeled for aquatic use in Florida and kills by preventing fish from using oxygen present in a pond. We recommend using 5 percent emulsified liquid rotenone for pond renovation, due to the difficulty of applying powdered rotenone properly. Drain the pond to the greatest extent possible prior to application to reduce the amount of chemical needed for renovation. Rotenone is available at major chemical and farm supply stores. Check with DEP regarding permit requirements to dispense rotenone. Seek the advice of a FWC biologist when planning a pond renovation. Read thoroughly and follow the instructions supplied on the chemical container. Rotenone is not harmful to warm-blooded animals when applied properly and at recommended application rates. Water temperatures lower than 70o F reduce rotenone's effectiveness and prolong its toxicity. The best time to renovate is late summer. Restocking fingerling bream should then occur in fall followed by bass during the spring. To determine how many gallons of rotenone you need, multiply surface acreage by average pond depth; then multiply by 0.7. (For a 2-acre pond with average depth of 6 feet: 2 x 6 x 0.7 = 8.4 gallons required.) Be certain all outflows from the pond remain closed for at least three weeks after rotenone application to prevent killing fish in areas outside of the pond. Mix a ratio of one gallon liquid rotenone to five gallons water prior to application. Uniform distribution of the fish toxicant is essential to obtain proper results. Collect and bury all dead fish. Do not stock fish for at least one month after rotenone application. Another type of renovation may consist of draining, drying or scraping the lake bottom. All Florida lakes and/or ponds over time gradually fill in and develop muck deposits on the bottom that can affect water quality, spawning, and juvenile fish survival. The more frequently vegetation is chemically treated and the more silt that flows into the lake, the quicker the lake fills in. Feeding Fish-feeding stations are excellent for attracting bluegill and channel catfish to a location where they can be caught easily. Fish food can be used to supplement their natural diet, and if fish are fed at adequate levels, growth rates will increase significantly. Do not feed in ponds where grass carp have been stocked to control vegetation. Grass carp will stop eating vegetation and consume the fish food. Commercially prepared fish
food is available at most farm supply stores. Pellets are available in various
sizes and in either a floating or sinking form. The advantage of using floating
pellets, rather than sinking food, is that the pond manager can more accurately
determine how much food the fish are eating. This prevents excessive feeding,
which can lead to oxygen depletion in the pond. With floating food, it is easy
to observe feeding fish, allowing you to determine sizes of bluegill to evaluate
population balance. Disadvantage of floating pellets is that the food can drift
into shallow water, making it difficult for fish to feed and more is consumed by
birds. It is recommended to mix sinking and floating if observing fish at the
surface is desired. Regardless of the type of fish food used, dispense only
enough so that all is eaten within 15 minutes. The availability of water, food and cover will attract many types of wildlife to your pond. Many species add to the natural beauty and enjoyment of the pond while others may cause problems. Most birds are an aesthetic asset to ponds. Wading birds such as herons, egrets, ibis and even wood storks may visit your pond. These birds eat small fish, but will not have a major affect on the fishery. An osprey or eagle may catch a large fish, but their affects are insignificant. Cormorants and anhingas swim underwater in pursuit of small fish, and can reduce sportfish populations if too many are present. Most people are afraid of snakes, and the feeling is mutual. Pond owners should learn to identify venomous snakes. Non-venomous water snakes are much more common, and they feed on a variety of animals including rats and mice. Frogs are very vocal at night when pond owners are trying to sleep. Frog density in the pond will be very low when bass are managed properly. Many people incorrectly assume turtles are harmful to a fish population. The diet of most turtles consists primarily of vegetation and dead animals. A few species such as alligator snapping and softshell turtles do feed primarily upon fish, but their predation is not detrimental to the overall fish population. Turtles can be caught for food. Reference the FWC Freshwater Fishing Regulations booklet or contact a FWC office for information concerning the taking of turtles. Alligators are migratory at times and will find your pond sooner or later. Their presence is of little concern unless they lose their fear of humans. Feeding alligators is dangerous and strictly prohibited by state and federal laws. They do not affect recreational fisheries. If you observe an alligator more than 4 feet long that displays bold or aggressive behavior, call the FWC Alligator Hotline 1-866-FWC-GATOR (392-4286) to request its removal. Otters are cute and fun to observe, but unfortunately, they can harm the fish population of a small pond. Beaver and nutria can also damage a pond by destroying surrounding trees and vegetation stands. Details concerning otter, beaver and nutria removal are available in the FWC Hunting Regulations booklet, or from any FWC office. One of the most important strategies to improve wildlife habitat around the pond is to establish a buffer of vegetation along the pond’s shoreline. The vegetative buffer will improve sediment and nutrient retention, help stabilize the shoreline, and improve water quality. The vegetative buffer zone should include a variety of native plants such as grasses and herbaceous seed producing plants and woody stem plants such as trees and shrubs. Grass and herbaceous plants such as wild millets, nut grasses, and numerous native “volunteer” plants provide nesting cover and shelter for a variety of wildlife. Many of these plants provide food resources such as seeds, berries, and other edible plant parts. They also serve to attract numerous insects, which are an important dietary component for birds, reptiles, amphibians, fish and a variety of mammals. Woody stem plants, such as wax myrtles, salt bush, willows, and Florida maples also provide food resources, cover, nesting habitat, and perching sites for a variety of birds. Artificial nesting structures (nest boxes) can be attached to trees or placed on posts with predator guards near the pond to attract cavity-nesting birds such as wood ducks, purple martins and bluebirds. Guidelines for constructing various nest boxes are available from any FWC Regional office. Woody stem plants have the additional benefit of providing shade and serving as windbreaks and sight and sound barriers. The location of plants can be as important as the species planted. For instance, trees or shrubs should never be planted on a dam or spillway as their roots can damage or weaken the structures and may attract burrowing animals. Also, consider planting trees far enough back from the water’s edge such that they allow enough sun to reach grasses and other herbaceous plants and allow easy access for recreation. Areas planted in grasses and herbaceous cover should be protected from disturbance by livestock. When flooding and drainage
of a pond can be controlled, plant and animal communities can be enhanced by
water level manipulation. For instance, implementing a slow, one- to two-foot
drawdown over a period of four to six weeks in early spring will provide
additional food resources for spring migrating waterfowl. License requirements, rules and regulations that pertain to all ponds are available at any Commission office. Some pond owners generate income by charging a fee for fishermen to fish in their pond. Short-term and long-term leases are common.
FWC Regional Contacts (P, WQ, V)* Northwest WMD 81 Water Management Drive Havana, FL 32333-4712 (850) 539-5999 Suwannee River WMD 9225 County Road 49 Live Oak, FL 32060 (386) 362-1001 St. Johns River WMD 4049 Reid Street Palatka, FL 32177 (386) 329-4500 South Florida WMD 3301 Gun Club Road West Palm Beach, FL 33406
(561) 686-8800
Southwest Florida WMD 2379 Board Street Brooksville, FL 34604 (352) 796-7211
Florida Department of Environmental Protection (P, V, WQ)* 3900 Commonwealth Blvd. Tallahassee, FL 32399 (850) 245-2118
Natural Resources Conservation Service (DC, LI)* 2614 NW 43rd Street Gainesville, FL 32606 (352) 338-9541
US Army Corps of Engineers (P)* 710 San Marco Blvd. Jacksonville, FL 32207 (904) 232-2568
Florida Department of Forestry (LI, P, V, W)* 3125 Conner Blvd. Tallahassee, FL 32399 (850) 488-6591
Florida Department of Agricultural and Consumer Services (A) 1203 Governors Square Blvd Tallahassee, FL 32301 (850) 488-5471 www.floridaaquaculture.com/contact.htm
US Fish and Wildlife Service (F, LI, W)* 1875 Century Blvd Suite 400 Atlanta, GA 30345 Phone (404) 679-4000
Southern Regional Aquaculture Center (A, F, WQ, V)* 127 Experimental Station Rd. Stineville, MS 38776 Phone (662) 686-3285
Florida Aquatic Plant Management Society (WQ, V)* PO Box 560700 Orlando, FL 32856-1327
University of Florida IFAS (A, F, V, W, WQ)* Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences 7922 NW 71st Street Gainesville, FL 32653-3071 Phone (352) 392-4817 www.fishweb.ifas.ufl.edu/ Aquatic Plants: www.plants.ifas.ufl.edu/guide/
Wildlife Ecology and Conservation 110 Newins-Ziegler Hall Gainesville, FL 32611-0430 Phone (352) 846-0643 www.wec.ufl.edu/extension/ Plants for Wildlife: www.wec.ufl.edu/extension/fl_habitat_program.htm; All UF Extension Publications: www.wec.ufl.edu/Extension/Extenspubs.htm
Lake Watch (F, V, WQ)* CitizenHotline1-800-527-3928
Association of Florida Native Nurseries (V)*
The Center for Wetlands (V, W, WQ)*
* The flowing are topics in which the previous sources should be contacted for:
A = Aquaculture DC = Pond Design and Construction F = Fish Management LI = Landowner Incentives P = Permits V = Vegetation Management W = Wildlife Management WQ = Water Quality
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